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Isaac Coates Journal of Journeys to the Indian Country

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water are unladen, and those intended to be re-shipped and taken into Lake Erie are carted or car-ried by land above the great Falls. Thence to New- ark, it being a newly settled town at the mouth of the river Niagara, containing about one hundred houses. It is a beautiful place opposite the American fort, called Niagara Fort, and just where the river empties into Lake Ontario which is another wonder-ful fresh water sea in this northern country. Lodged at George Bradshaw's. In this place oats is 6d. per quart, hay 14d. per night for horses. This day's ride, twenty-two miles. 4th. Rode fifteen miles up the river to William Lunday's. Left our horses there are walked about a mile to a meeting appointed by Nathan Smith and William Blakey, in a meeting-house near the Falls, called the Federal Meeting House, it being built by the inhabitants for any minister of any religious de- nomination to preach in, but I understand meetings are very rare in it. No Friends live hereabouts but William Lunday, and he, by some means, forfeited his right before he came here, but is kind to us. I thought the opportunity was owned, particularly to-ward the close. In the afternoon William Blakey, Nathan Smith, and Thomas Stewardson set off for Black Creek; Jacob Paxson being very poorly, stayed at Lunday's; James Cooper and myself went about five miles down the river to view a great curiosity called the whirlpool. On our way we met with an acceptable repast on excellent peaches. We came to the bank of the river, which I believe is three hundred feet above the water, nearly perpendicular, on which we had a fair view of that astonishing place, the river rush-ing with great impetuosity against the bank or wall of rocks at a short turn in the river and then turning in a cove of perhaps ten acres in which it whirls round and round, striving to escape at a narrow pas-sage of perhaps one hundred yards, being all the opening there is between the high hills. Into this pool abundance of logs and timber is carried and per-haps cannot get out for some weeks. It is amazing to behold the whirls that are formed, the logs sucked down and some time after shooting up (perhaps 100 yards from the place they went down, end foremost) fifteen or twenty feet perpendicular out of the water; that upon the whole it is an indescribably agitated place. Returned and lodged at William Lunday's. 5th. William Lunday accompanied James Cooper and myself in order to take a satisfactory view of the great cataract. We went about three-quarters of a mile below the Falls and then descended a bank of lime-stone rocks, I suppose nearly 300 feet, which was not quite perpendicular, to the surface of the water, some times holding by roots, some times by twigs, and some of the way down a ladder, other times sticking our toes in the cavities and holding by the craggy parts of the rocks. When down, clam-bered along the rocks, logs, slabs, and timber up the river to the place where the water shoots over the rock and falls 160 feet. We went as far as we though was safe, being as wet, with the spray of water and sweat, as if we had been in a heavy shower. I had an inclination to go further in behind the water, but Lunday said it was dangerous; for, as he said, if the wind were to shift against us we should be in danger of being suffocated with the spray and sulphur which smelled very strong. I though there was not quite so much danger as he alleged, believining he was a good deal timid; however, I thought best to decline, lest I should suffer for my temerity. On clambering along the rocks by the water with a wall or mountain of rocks 160 feet high in some place over my head, hanging twelve or fifteen feet over plumb, it appeared truly awful and dangerous, which put me upon think-ing what my view was in going into such apparent danger, as it is evident great columns of them fre-quently break off and fall down; but as I believed it was not altogether to gratify an indle curiosity, for the whole of the prospect led me into a reverent frame of mind, admiring the wonderful works, and in some measure adoring the Great Author, I then though if I should then be buried in oblivion, perhaps my soul was as much in a state of aspiration and adoration as it might be when the unavoidable event should take place. This consideration led me on without much fear at that time, though naturally timid. I need not undertake to describe this wonderful phenom-enon, as many pens have been employed in setting forth its magnitude; but as I have taken a view of the river in places many miles down, I am fully of the min dthat the great Falls at some period were nine miles farther down the river and that they are gradu-ally wearing up, and perhaps in time may drain the great Lake Erie. It is wonderful to behold the agi-tation of the water in the rapids above the falls and also below them, column after column dashing against each other and rising a great height with such foaming and confusion that the whole appears truly awful. We were very wet when we left the place; got on our horses and rode to Chippewa. Fed our horses and took a snatch ourselves, then rode to Black Creek settlement, twenty-four miles, and lodged at Anna Morris', who is a kind, agreeable young widow. 6th. Attended the meeting at Asa Schooly's, it being large for that place. After meeting we had a conference with the members of that meeting and laid before them the need we though they had of a house to meet in, which they seemd spirited to build. On considering their circumstances,--being most of them new settlers and not in very affluent life,--we made them an offer of thirty dollars toward purchasing materials; but they modestly declined accepting it, and said they could do themselves. I have now pre-pared things in order to set my face homewards to-morrow, which feels very pleasant. 7th. Wm. Blakey, Nathan Smith, Jacob Paxson, Thomas Stewardson, and myself lodged at our kind friend, Asa Schooly's, last night, who with his valued wife, equipped us for our journey through the wilder-ness. Early in the morning, after taking an affec-tionate farewell of our kind hose, I set off with Thom-as Stewardson, and rode thirteen miles to the ferry. Had a fine passage over the river which is a terror to many, then rode three miles up the lake to the mouth of Buffalo creek, put up our horses and waited until all the rest of our company came, which is now augmented to the number of eleven--William Lippincott, John